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A snowboarder sitting on top of the giant Banff sign, surrounded by snow-covered pinesA snowboarder sitting on top of the giant Banff sign, surrounded by snow-covered pines

My Banff ski holiday: bluebird spring days, unreal powder, and lots to love off the slopes

Two winter seasons in Banff, five years away, and a trip back with friends to find out whether the Canadian Rockies still had the same hold on her.
21st October, 2026
5 min read time

Two winter seasons working in Banff, eight resorts ridden, and then five years away. Joanna went back with a group of friends and found the place had lost none of its pull: quiet tree runs at Sunshine Village, bluebird spring days that climbed towards 17°C, and a town with enough going on to fill any day the weather turns. She told us about her favourite run, what the Mount Royal is like as a base, and why everyone she meets who has been to Banff says the same thing about it.

Joanna Hamer in a bobble hat and scarf, standing in a snowy forest in Banff

Meet the snowboarder

Joanna Hamer

Advanced snowboarder · 20 years on the slopes

I grew up on family ski holidays in the French Alps, but always dreamed of doing a full season somewhere big. At 25, I finally packed my bags for Canada and spent two winter seasons working in Banff, riding eight different resorts. A season gave me the time to learn to snowboard without losing precious holiday days on skis, and I've never looked back. Back in the UK, my appetite for snowboard trips only grew. Since then I've ridden everywhere from Colorado to the Alps, the Polish Tatras, Charlotte's Pass in Australia and even Manali in India. My goal is to snowboard on every continent and tick off as many resorts as I can.

Devon, England · @jo_ontheroadd

Destination
Banff, Canada
When
Spring
Travelled with
Friends
Stay
Mount Royal Hotel
Two snowboarders on a snowy slope at Banff Sunshine Village with a chairlift running behind them
The first run back after five years, at the top of the new heated Super Angel Express / Banff Sunshine Village

"Once Banff gets under your skin, you're hooked for life."

What's your favourite run in Banff?

Eagle Creek on Goat's Eye Mountain at Banff Sunshine Village. The magic starts before you even clip in: riding the Goat's Eye lift gives you some of the most breathtaking views in the Canadian Rockies. But the run itself is just pure fun, a gorgeous, tree-lined creek bed packed with natural play features and soft bumps shaped by the roots beneath the snow. Because it stays blissfully quiet, you often get to carve through the trees feeling like you have the entire mountain to yourself.

Where did you stay?

We stayed at the Mount Royal Hotel. If you want to be right in the action on Banff Avenue, this is the spot. The hotel feels new, with comfortable, generous rooms and fantastic rooftop hot tubs overlooking the peaks. The ski bus stops outside, which makes getting to Lake Louise, Sunshine Village and Mt. Norquay easy. It's a bit light on communal hangout space indoors, but being surrounded by the town's top spots easily makes up for that.

What surprised you most this time around?

The snow quality, and how much there is to do off the slopes. Sunshine Village stole the show for me: the powder was unreal, and the lifts moved smoothly with far fewer queues than you usually find in the Alps.

Banff National Park itself is spectacular, unlike anywhere I've ever seen and somewhere I could never get bored of. There's everything from ice skating on frozen lakes to walks through a frozen Johnston Canyon, snowmobiling and so much more. Top that off with a brilliant food scene (especially Block for dinner), and it's the complete package.

A snow-covered walkway winding through the trees in Johnston Canyon
A snowy walk through Johnston Canyon / Banff National Park

What do you wish you'd known before going, and what are your top tips?

That spring skiing in Banff is an absolute dream. February gets very cold, but March through May brings sunny, bluebird days that can reach up to 17°C, with unbelievable snow conditions.

How was the snow and weather?

Having spent a full season in Banff before this trip, I've ridden in pretty much everything the Rockies can throw at you: glorious bluebird days, heavy whiteouts, and freezing days reaching -34°C. The extreme cold days are the exception rather than the rule, and the snow quality is so good that even a rough weather day in Banff can outperform an average day skiing in Europe.

If you do take a bad-weather day off, there's tonnes to do in town. You can catch a movie at the cinema, play arcade games at Wild Bill's, go bowling at High Rollers, try indoor climbing at the Banff Centre, and more.

A snowmobile on a snowy track with forested mountains behind, on a day trip from Banff
A snowmobiling day trip to Panorama from Banff

How's the après-ski and food scene in Banff?

What I love about Banff is that après can be whatever you want it to be. It covers everything from relaxed local pubs to high-end cocktails.

For an authentic local feel, Tommy's and Elk & Oarsman are brilliant spots for darts and chatting with seasonaires, while The Rose & Crown does half-price wine on Wednesdays. If you're looking for a party, High Rollers is iconic for Sunday Funday DJs (and bowling on weeknights), and Dancing Sasquatch is the go-to nightclub. For something elevated, I'd recommend grabbing a cocktail at The Fairmont Banff Springs and wandering around the castle that reminds most people of Hogwarts.

Food-wise, the town caters to every budget and cuisine imaginable. Block Kitchen + Bar and Bear Street Tavern are personal standouts. And for morning coffee, I'd always choose Wild Flour Bakery, Whitebark Cafe or Good Earth.

Who would you recommend Banff to?

Literally everyone! I started my snowboarding journey on these slopes as a total beginner and progressed to double black diamonds, so I can safely say the terrain progression is second to none.

Riding up with the group
Strapping in at the bottom
Out of the wind under the bubble

Would you go back to Banff?

Absolutely, I'll always go back. Having lived in Banff for two winter seasons and then gone back for a holiday, it still gives me that instant 'I'm home' feeling the second I arrive. At first, I thought that deep attachment was just because I'd lived there, but without fail, every single person I've ever spoken to who has visited Banff feels the exact same pull. Once Banff gets under your skin, you're hooked for life.

What was the highlight of your trip?

Stepping off the shuttle bus and arriving back in Banff for the first time in five years. Looking up at the iconic view of Cascade Mountain towering over the town at the end of Banff Avenue, and feeling that immediate sense of being back home, was pure magic. No matter how many years pass, that view never loses its magic!

Three friends standing at the end of Banff Avenue with Cascade Mountain behind them
At the end of Banff Avenue for the obligatory Cascade Mountain photo

How Joanna rated Banff

Overall
5/5
Skiing and pistes
5/5
Après-ski
5/5
Value for money
5/5
Accommodation
5/5
Atmosphere
5/5
Getting there
5/5

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